A cream for uneven-looking skin tone works slowly, over weeks. The sun works on your skin every day, including the visible light that comes with it. If you skip sunscreen, the sun keeps adding color faster than any cream can help even it out. That's why the American Academy of Dermatology says that evening out discoloration starts with sunscreen, and suggests a tinted one with iron oxides.
A lot of people buy a tone-evening set, use it faithfully at night and then walk to the car without sunscreen. Then they wonder why nothing changes. I'd rather tell you this before you spend your money than after.
Why does sunscreen matter so much for uneven tone?
Because the marks you want to fade are exactly the ones the sun makes darker. Marks left behind by breakouts, uneven patches, a darker upper lip: sun exposure keeps feeding all of them. And it isn't only UV. The AAD explains that the sun's visible light can also cause darker patches, and that iron oxide, the pigment that gives tinted sunscreens their color, helps protect against it (AAD).
Patience matters too. The same AAD page says that a mark a few shades darker than your skin usually takes 6 to 12 months to fade, and deeper ones can take longer. That's with sun protection. No cream of mine is going to beat that clock, and I'm not going to pretend it can.
What should I look for in a sunscreen?
Following the AAD's list:
- SPF 30 or higher and broad spectrum, which means it covers both UVA and UVB.
- Tinted, with iron oxides. On the ingredient list they usually show up as iron oxides or as CI 77491, CI 77492 and CI 77499.
- Water resistant if you sweat or swim, which in Florida is most of the year.
- Non-comedogenic if your skin is oily.
- A tint that blends with your skin tone, so you'll actually wear it.
If your skin is sensitive, test a new sunscreen on a small spot first, the same as any other product. A sunscreen that stings every morning is a sunscreen you'll stop using.
How often do I put it on?
Every morning, on every bit of skin that clothes don't cover if you're going outside. Then again every two hours when you're out, and after swimming or sweating (AAD). For the face, the AAD says at least a teaspoon, put on about 15 minutes before you go out. The reapplying is where most people fall off. A hat and shade help on the days you can't keep up with it.
Where does sunscreen go in my Turmeric routine?
Last, every morning. This is how the Turmeric Tone-Evening Set looks across a day:
- Morning: wash with the Turmeric Tone-Evening Loofah Soap, then a thin layer of the Turmeric Tone-Evening Cream. Let it sink in for a couple of minutes, then sunscreen.
- Night: the soap again, the liquid exfoliant two or three times a week (better at night), and the cream.
The cream has niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, kojic acid and turmeric root extract, all well-known cosmetic ingredients for a more even, brighter look. I wrote about what each one is in niacinamide, kojic acid and alpha arbutin. And because the actives in this set can make skin more sensitive to the sun, sunscreen isn't optional while you use it. It says so on the product page too.
If you want to try two steps before the full set, the Turmeric Tone-Evening Mini Set is the soap and the cream. The general order of any routine is in skincare routine order, morning and night.
When should a dermatologist see a dark mark?
When a mark changes size, shape or color, when it bleeds or itches, when it appears out of nowhere and keeps growing, or when patches spread across your face. Those need a doctor's eyes, not a cream.
A few more questions people ask
Is sunscreen enough on its own?
For protection, it's the most important step. For a more even look, it works best with a gentle routine around it. The two go together.
Can I put sunscreen on top of the Turmeric cream?
Yes. The cream goes first, you give it a couple of minutes, and the sunscreen goes on top as the last step.
Do I need sunscreen if I'm inside all day?
If you sit by a window or step out for errands, yes. It takes a minute and it protects everything else you're doing at night.
Sources: AAD, How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones · AAD, How to apply sunscreen.
Cosmetic products. Not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.